Introducing our Do-It-Yourself (DIY) package
Our comprehensive Do-It-Yourself (DIY) package is ideal for customers who prefer to install the swimming pool
themselves, by a third party building contractor or in areas that fall outside our installation area.
Our DIY pool kit form is accompanied by comprehensive installation instructions to make any pool
installation easy and manageable.
A Fibreglass Pool
Depending on the size of the pool, you will need to measure the area to be dug to 300mm larger than the pool
that is to be installed. The bigger the hole the more backfill you will require. This will increase costs.
Make sure that you are as close as possible to the position where the pool is to be installed. Check the
land for slope/gradient.
Digging the hole
Digging the hole is simple, however, the size and depth of the hole at this stage is critical. If it is at
all possible the excavated material needs to be moved off site quickly. This will give you a good clean
building site. Less clutter means more pleasant working conditions for you. Now you are probably asking,
"What about the depth?". Each pool is different and has unique characteristics.
- Use the actual pool shell to determine the exact measurement details.
- Run two lines using a fish line (which is heavier than fishing line) along the length of the pool
on the outer edges without moving onto the corners of the pool.
- Measure into the pool so that you can drop a perpendicular line to the floor of the pool.
- Measure and record the distance to the floor and also the distance from the side of the pool.
- Now do the same at the shallow end of the pool.
- Dig the hole depth to about 50mm deeper than the measurements you have obtained.
- Consider the ground to be level, put four pegs into the ground at the same distances you
measured them to be apart at the pool shell. Be sure that the pegs are some 750mm further
away from the proposed hole to be dug.
Fitting of the Pool
The hole is dug, and all is ready to set your final levels so that you can pull the screed on the floor of
the pool. Establish the exact required finished level, keeping in mind that it is difficult to get to an
exact level because the pool can move during installation. The limit is 30mm out of level over the pool.
Determine the thickness of your surround to be laid on the pool. This is important as provision for this is
needed so that when the pool is completed, full of water and concreted, the paving will need to be done and
this should bring the pool completed to the level required. All this being established, let's set up the
- Check the four pegs again to be sure that they are all level with each other.
- Run the fishline from peg to peg from shallow end to deep end.
- Use the measurement of the pool inside the hole. In the same fashion you took the
measurement from the shell out the ground, establish those measurements inside the hole.
- You should have four pegs on the floor of the hole set to the levels as measured before.
- The fishline again needs to be placed in the hole on the pegs so that it forms a rectangle.
- Place the backfill in the hole (UK will be sharpstone) so that the fishline is just above the
backfill. Be sure to use a straight edge to get the floor flat with the fishline.
- Stand back remeasure double check all distances and confirm again that all measurements
are correct. (If you do not you will need to remove the pool out the ground and remeasure
Place the Pool in the hole
- Remove all the pegs in the hole and outside of the hole.
- Place the pool in the ground.
- Using the same transparent pipe that was used to level the pegs at the outset. Use this pipe
to level the pool.
- Keep one end of the pipe in the deep end of the pool do not move it, now level around the
pool using 38mm by 38mm battens or similar timber as chocks from the outside sand in the
hole to the top of the pool flange.
- Once the pool is level and the floor checked that it is firmly on the ground recheck and get
into the pool and feel with your feet, start to fill with water.
- At the same time you should fill the backfill behind the pool mixing the backfill/sharpstone
with cement ratio 10 barrows to one cement.
- This material will fall to behind the pool in the cove this is where the pool floor bends to meet
the pool wall.
- As the water level rises place the sand into the hole so that the water and sand come up
- As the water level is rising you will need to compact the sand in the cove so that it is firm. Be
sure not to distort the shape of the pool, so be careful not to over compact the soil. ( This leads
to bulging ) Under compaction will cause the pool to move out of shape and out of level.
- Once the cove area all round the pool is set allow the water level to rise some 15cm above
the sand and backfill with this difference all the way up.
- Check the pool wall for straightness and no bulges whilst back filling.
- While all this is taking place, you will have to fit the weir/skimmer and the aimflo. Do not
panic you will have enough time to do all that is needed.
- Use marine or underwater silicon to seal the weir and the inlet pipe openings. Make sure all
screws used in the pool are stainless steel.
Concreting the pool surround
- Tie the pool sides back with wire to pegs that you put in the ground around the pool.
- Your backfill is now to about 100mm below the pool top and the water is full to halfway up
- The pipes are connected to the filter and pump.
- THE POOL SHOULD BE LEVEL TO WITHIN 30MM. Ave.
- Your eye should tell you the pool looks good or not.
- Place reinforcing rod about 6mm thick around the pool in two lines joining them together
every 1.5m with a short piece across.
- Mix your concrete 3:2:1 and place the concrete pulling your level so that there is a gentle
slope away from the pool.
Once this is done you can stand back and admire your work.