Tel: 012 800 1924

Introducing our Do-It-Yourself (DIY) package

Our comprehensive Do-It-Yourself (DIY) package is ideal for customers who prefer to install the swimming pool themselves, by a third party building contractor or in areas that fall outside our installation area.

Our DIY pool kit form is accompanied by comprehensive installation instructions to make any pool installation easy and manageable.

Our extensive quality control record
is supported by:

  • Over 20 years of manufacturing experience
  • 56 Agents nationwide
  • More than 60 000 fibreglass pools

Why buy a DIY fibreglass pool?

  • Quick as a splash- installed
  • Easy maintenance / easy to clean due to smooth polished finish
  • No sharp edges - safer -longer kreepy life
  • Flexible -High tensile strength of fibreglass , accommodates most earth movements
  • Warmer water – fibreglass insulates better
  • Less chemical usage due to smooth finish that is non porous
  • Economical to install
  • Our kit forms complete with products from internationally recognised suppliers, these are Pentair, Kreepy Krauly, Astral, Quality and Bioguard
  • Availability of upgrades such as the VSD pump which could save you up to 90% on energy consumption
  • Each pool gets two Quality Control forms, one signed during dispatch and the other by the client for future reference, R&D and product failure prevention
  • We have such confidence in our product to even supply markets like England, and African Countries, knowing that our products will stand the test of time and international standards

Installation Guide

A Fibreglass Pool

Depending on the size of the pool, you will need to measure the area to be dug to 300mm larger than the pool that is to be installed. The bigger the hole the more backfill you will require. This will increase costs. Make sure that you are as close as possible to the position where the pool is to be installed. Check the land for slope/gradient.

Digging the hole

Digging the hole is simple, however, the size and depth of the hole at this stage is critical. If it is at all possible the excavated material needs to be moved off site quickly. This will give you a good clean building site. Less clutter means more pleasant working conditions for you. Now you are probably asking, "What about the depth?". Each pool is different and has unique characteristics.

  • Use the actual pool shell to determine the exact measurement details.
  • Run two lines using a fish line (which is heavier than fishing line) along the length of the pool on the outer edges without moving onto the corners of the pool.
  • Measure into the pool so that you can drop a perpendicular line to the floor of the pool.
  • Measure and record the distance to the floor and also the distance from the side of the pool.
  • Now do the same at the shallow end of the pool.
  • Dig the hole depth to about 50mm deeper than the measurements you have obtained.
  • Consider the ground to be level, put four pegs into the ground at the same distances you measured them to be apart at the pool shell. Be sure that the pegs are some 750mm further away from the proposed hole to be dug.


Fitting of the Pool

The hole is dug, and all is ready to set your final levels so that you can pull the screed on the floor of the pool. Establish the exact required finished level, keeping in mind that it is difficult to get to an exact level because the pool can move during installation. The limit is 30mm out of level over the pool. Determine the thickness of your surround to be laid on the pool. This is important as provision for this is needed so that when the pool is completed, full of water and concreted, the paving will need to be done and this should bring the pool completed to the level required. All this being established, let's set up the floor.

  • Check the four pegs again to be sure that they are all level with each other.
  • Run the fishline from peg to peg from shallow end to deep end.
  • Use the measurement of the pool inside the hole. In the same fashion you took the measurement from the shell out the ground, establish those measurements inside the hole.
  • You should have four pegs on the floor of the hole set to the levels as measured before.
  • The fishline again needs to be placed in the hole on the pegs so that it forms a rectangle.
  • Place the backfill in the hole (UK will be sharpstone) so that the fishline is just above the backfill. Be sure to use a straight edge to get the floor flat with the fishline.
  • Stand back remeasure double check all distances and confirm again that all measurements are correct. (If you do not you will need to remove the pool out the ground and remeasure again anyway).


Place the Pool in the hole

  • Remove all the pegs in the hole and outside of the hole.
  • Place the pool in the ground.
  • Using the same transparent pipe that was used to level the pegs at the outset. Use this pipe to level the pool.
  • Keep one end of the pipe in the deep end of the pool do not move it, now level around the pool using 38mm by 38mm battens or similar timber as chocks from the outside sand in the hole to the top of the pool flange.
  • Once the pool is level and the floor checked that it is firmly on the ground recheck and get into the pool and feel with your feet, start to fill with water.
  • At the same time you should fill the backfill behind the pool mixing the backfill/sharpstone with cement ratio 10 barrows to one cement.
  • This material will fall to behind the pool in the cove this is where the pool floor bends to meet the pool wall.
  • As the water level rises place the sand into the hole so that the water and sand come up together.
  • As the water level is rising you will need to compact the sand in the cove so that it is firm. Be sure not to distort the shape of the pool, so be careful not to over compact the soil. ( This leads to bulging ) Under compaction will cause the pool to move out of shape and out of level.
  • Once the cove area all round the pool is set allow the water level to rise some 15cm above the sand and backfill with this difference all the way up.
  • Check the pool wall for straightness and no bulges whilst back filling.
  • While all this is taking place, you will have to fit the weir/skimmer and the aimflo. Do not panic you will have enough time to do all that is needed.
  • Use marine or underwater silicon to seal the weir and the inlet pipe openings. Make sure all screws used in the pool are stainless steel.


Concreting the pool surround

  • Tie the pool sides back with wire to pegs that you put in the ground around the pool.
  • Your backfill is now to about 100mm below the pool top and the water is full to halfway up the weir.
  • The pipes are connected to the filter and pump.
  • Your eye should tell you the pool looks good or not.
  • Place reinforcing rod about 6mm thick around the pool in two lines joining them together every 1.5m with a short piece across.
  • Mix your concrete 3:2:1 and place the concrete pulling your level so that there is a gentle slope away from the pool.


Once this is done you can stand back and admire your work.

The D-I-Y Package Includes

  • Comprehensive installation instructions
  • 1 x Fibreglass Shell
  • 1 x Complete 0.65KW pump and 2 bag filtration system on steel frame
  • 1 x Plumming Kit (Pipes and Fittings)
  • 1 x Electrical distribution board with timer switch and transformer
  • 1 x LED Standard Light
  • 1 x Weir
  • 2 x Aim Flow
  • 10 Year factory warranty on the shell
Please note: Transport Charges Apply
We can also supply you
with all the extras. From
solar heating panels and
saltwater chlorinators, to
pool safety nets and heat
pumps, and so much
Prices subject to change
without prior written
notice- Terms &
Conditions Apply

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